The Lowrey Vineyard is a touchstone for many people who have followed Niagara and the Niagara Bench over the last few decades. We know it was planted for Karl Kaiser of Inniskillin (by the Lowrey family of Five Rows Craft Winery) – and that the oldest vines go back to 1984 and 1988. Lowrey is planted on the St. David’s Bench, which seems to have a vocation for making beautiful and elegant wines. We have the same scented raspberries – even perfumed sour cherries – as in the Central Bench, but with a lighter tone: raspberries are corrupted here, with an anise-scented fruit character. Is this more chalk and mineral than the Old Eastern Block, or is it merely more palpable because there's just that little bit less weight to mask the minerality? (These, indeed, are late-night questions!)

A word from Mary: Bright cranberry. Velvet texture.

Drinking prime: Now – 2034

Best fruit window: 2027 – 2032

Cases produced: 191